Www.cbradiomagazine.com tried three different microphones in two different situations - both fixed and at highway speeds with the window open. Radio reception in the first part of the video is a radio project HR2600 modified with a different glass mixtures for use as a BC band receiver (although he often shows acutally 29.3650 27.3650). The tests were done in the Gaza Strip any CB Radio Amateur in the second part is an LT grant. Stock 4-pin Uniden Microphone DM-452 Power / Echo canceling microphone Styka SR-65SBCancellation of test results of microphone: Microphone The stock has been very clear on standing, but it was very noisy at highway speed. Was audio and radio was less swing compared to DM-452 or Stryker 65. The DM-452 had more audio and figures above the top of the radio, but also collected a large amount of road noise. The Stryker has been almost as strong as the microphone to try to win over the microphone. The 65 best numbers really turned Stryker ProductionThe DM-452.
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So had a good sound in your car and you want to make the same music in your living room. This is possible.
home audio subwoofers are now available for purchase. By investing in one, the same rules on car audio subwoofers applicable.
In a home theater system, the subwoofer is the largest of speakers. This is usually hidden in the back of the room, but the unit that operates the most serious tones.
When viewing a movieshows the noise of thunder or the roar of an earthquake, you would think that actually happens in your home.
If you have one, it's like you brought the film to their relatives. You can be really immersed in the DVD that you pop in.
Those who wish to buy are in a good lookout for subwoofers looking to add to your home theater system with sound. Home audio subwoofers, though hidden, still designed for aesthetic purposes.
Somethingspeakers that appeal to audiophiles and cinephiles. It may not be as portable as subwoofers car so if you buy one, make sure that this is the one actually used in your home. This must be something you can benefit from a period of time.
The first thing to do is configure it so that you look good in your living room. The cable must not be impeded. You can do this by making high-quality wire and put it near thespeakers.
You should also check if the amplifier goes well with subwoofers and speakers. As subwoofers car subwoofers home audio must be compatible with two speakers and an amplifier.
You can be class-home audio subwoofers on the market today, but if these do not work well with the speakers and amplifier, then, would make sense.
Configuration is easy, you can even do it yourself. Simplycable to connect the line level preamp subwoofer output on the AV receiver. Then you can connect to the subwoofer.
Enabling this function to adjust the volume of its ideal level. You can also manipulate the settings so that the home audio subwoofers give you the sound you had the intention of listening.
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Here is my vintage Ameco AC-1 Ham Radio novice CW transmitter on 40 Meters at about 5 watts output, along with my homebrew receiver and station controller (keyer and TR switch). If you are not familiar with this vintage novice rig, google search and you will find some interesting information on it. The AC-1's signal is being monitored in the shack for this video with a Kenwood R-1000 receiver - my homebrew receiver has only headphone audio output right now. As you can hear, my AC-1 produces a clean and stable signal. Hope you enjoy the video!! 73, Jack WA6KYO RECEIVER INFO: I've been getting questions about my homebrew receiver. It is a simple solid state direct conversion type with two separate audio filters for added selectivity. It's basic, but actually works quite well on 40 meters. The metal box above the chassis and just behind the National Vernier dial is the VFO and is extremely stable. I will make a video demonstrating the receiver soon. For more info on the AC-1, including partial replica kits, decals, coil forms, etc... there is an AC-1 Yahoo Group: groups.yahoo.com Here's another great AC-1 page: www.qsl.net Looking for more info on homebrewing your own replica? Original instruction manual, schematics and parts list information can be found here: www.qsl.net
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A lot of "interference" problems that afflict communities using cellular, PCS, microwave, satellite or other systems have their origins in events that originated outside the premises of the communicator, but the proximity to disseminate or other high power RF installations. An increasing number of communication services is also crowded places with high ambient electromagnetic RF generated by a high concentration of lower power radio transmitters. It wasexpected that about 100,000 new transmission and reception will be needed in coming years to meet demand for new wireless services. The pressure on the availability of the site is forcing the implementation of many services, and the problems of EMI are ubiquitous. Unless stated and properly treated, these problems can seriously hinder the deployment of wireless systems and expensive operation.
Despite EMI may occur dramatically, as the accidentsystems together, his touch is generally more subtle. Victims often suffer from significant degradation of the system before realizing that it is a problem that concerns us. This often occurs during the operation, repair or repair events. Typical signs of interference EMI are:
* Character unusual equipment defective test.
* Problems intermittent power regulator.
* Temporary, unwanted audio, video or digital noise signals superimposed.
* The high rate of unexplained signalsinterruptions.
* Poor or coverage of certain sites unreliable.
* General "malaise" in a particular site.
Many wireless media have always been built in a well-placed, with high-power FM and TV antennas. It is not uncommon for FM signals over 100,000 W or television signals to exceed five million W.
In such situations, there is a real threat that high levels of RF signal will brute force interference problems in wirelessprovide or support the team. The potential for overloading the receiver desensitization, the receipt and harmonic intermodulation interference is important. There are even cases where ambient levels of field strength limits at the approach of radiation risk for staff, including shelters and buildings.
close to AM broadcast stations with effective radiated power up to 250,000 sites W can be subjected to intense electric and magnetic fields, which are coupledteam through the coaxial cables, telephone lines, and grounding and power cables. fundamental and harmonic frequencies of AM stations and modulation of the audio components of overlap case of common data, T-carrier and the spectrum clock. The potential disruption of the system is enormous. Torres commonly associated with mobile sites effectively "concentrate" the signal of AM broadcasting to local values and above the forecasts in space.
Even in places that are not close to broadcasting, areoften miscalculated so there is a significant intervention of the EMI. Although wireless is not generally considered "great power", the concentration of chains on a site can not compete with the power of television. For example, 32 channels maximum power PCS FCC may extend about 50,000 W. A group of eight channels of research can accumulate more than 25,000 W. An installation of wireless cable with 32 channels can contribute more than 200,000 watts in the 2 GHz band.
At these power densities, not only the RFengineer is interested in attitudes EMI, as intermodulation and desensitization, but also the enforcement staff and the direct input signal RF equipment. Perhaps recognizing this potential RF bathroom, the FCC requires that all PCS transmission facility to be inspected and certified free of RF compliance.
Intentional interference EMI RF transmitters is not the whole problem. The mass conversion of the radio equipment room for digital architectures has led toan environment rich in step signals radiated site. As digital signals tend to be square waves with a rich harmonic spectrum, and convergence of clock frequencies in the VHF range, wireless carriers are increasingly finding that they are producing energy right combs EMI through its own and their neighbors are receiving benefits. This problem is compounded as the antennas down. Even the digital equipment that complies with FCC Class "A" specifications can interact with receptorsseveral hundred meters, if not properly protected.
EMI containment management and challenges of the resolution is not as simple as it seems. Action must begin with a clear institutional policy for carrying out the procedures for electromagnetic compatibility in the process of developing the site (often a critical factor is missing). Just as the loss of revenue of a scrambling system of balls is a concern of businesses and should also be a system of dynamic programming free of interference.
Athe more frustrating is trying to define, let alone maintain, a steady state RF situation everywhere. In fact, the electromagnetic environment on the site is better controlled in constant evolution. Most mobile sources are by nature "explosions" and unpredictable in their operating cycle. Even the stations to change the modes and observing irregular hours they operate.
new transmitters, channels and modes of operation can be calculated emission or near the siteand incompatible with existing systems. Identification of new operators is further complicated by the policies of the FCC license on the market and, consequently, there can be no trace of all the exact positions of the transmitter.
Space does not permit a thorough discussion of techniques for solving such problems known as intermodulation and desensitization. However, there are some basic approaches that can help contain or resolve equipment worth less input EMIchallenges
Site analysis *. acquisition of business management, site and design of all systems engineers must consider EMI refers to in his post. Clearly, the ideal scenario would be to select all sites at a sufficient distance external EMI and keep them sterile. In reality, however, system developers must choose sites with respect to the "clean" EMI environment and establish an appropriate legal basis and control of site structureelectromagnetic environment, including the ability to eliminate the sources of worry if the sign consolidation efforts fail.
In general, many potential troublemakers can be identified early in the process of site selection of adequate protection can be designed efficiently in the new system. A careful study of problems, including field measurements where necessary, must be made to identify and document risks, and anticipate the future. (The diagnostic measures mayfor the preparation of the existing zone.) These studies should use proven electromagnetic parametric models and spatial data such as consulting firms specializing in this field.
* Protection against RF. It is not uncommon for a high-level RF site must be occupied, despite the best efforts of the site evaluation, which requires that the site team is surrounded by a virtual "box", designed to block more signals outside the RF input as possible from sensitive circuits.However, a perfectly insulated container is neither practical nor cost effective. There should always be the penetration of the shield box to account for the transmission lines of the antenna, the main power connection, telephone lines, doors, ground wires, air conditioners and water pipes and sewer. The trick is to restrict the passage of the RF by these ideas, too.
Most of the needs of the wireless industry can be met by the shield of innovative applications of the architecture of protection of advanced materials. Fibermitigation compounds, suspensions and coating more traditional techniques can produce an attenuation of 40 dB or more in existing buildings. Even if no "military secret" rules, such mitigation will often be sufficient to prevent the ingress of unwanted RF electromagnetic destructive, and potential hazards of radiation to the site personnel of the team.
In addition to creating the case with any test, other techniques are needed to adequately meetpenetrations, such as the use of filters for power lines and transmission lines and blocking RF signals from the offender's door, air conditioning and other openings. complete identification of the best way to meet this challenge must be exercised for each site. Importantly, the implementation of a comprehensive technical analysis since the beginning of the project will measure and determine the extent of potential problems caused by RF and identify alternatives to ensure effective controlcompatibility of systems and the environment.
Based on these data and other support, shielding and other protective RF may be selected to complement and influence the architectural planning and construction. In some cases it may be necessary to modify the standard electronic designs to ensure that existing facilities and future expansion of the site will remain resistant to RF interference.
Site operators should recognize that the shield "systems" anti-RF input on your computer,and this system is an integral part of the real activity of the site air conditioning or power systems. They must recognize that its system of protection must be cautious. Too often, out of sight, the attitude of mind on the shield components allows future violation of the effectiveness of the protection system.
* Measures of the evidence. test measurements should be incorporated into the overall design process to include baseline measures on suspicion of "threat" of frequencyprotective equipment and new facilities are in place. These data, move a baseline to support future maintenance of prevention, which must be done on a regular basis, and solving problems. Whatever the installation of equipment and site selection process is planned and executed, and not the invariable "unauthorized entry" Wall of cable TV, air conditioning or replacement of any other change that would EMI shield damage or other preventive procedures.
Wheninteference deal with EMI, it is a pay me now or pay later, my world, and the latter option is almost always more expensive. It is never too early to plan for the effective reduction of RF interference. The actions of the first analysis of the RF environment, shielding and other RF interference prevention should be taken into account the principle of site selection, building design or material selection and updating process . It is important to realize that the reduction is a prerequisite for a life-cycle wirelesssite, careful attention to the demanding requirements of the evolving site that can degrade RF EMI or modify the system performance.
A consultant is qualified and experienced engineering EMI compatibility must be maintained in the design and planning process and maintained throughout the operational phase. An analysis of the electromagnetic environment of a potential site wireless avoid costly surprises in the final product, and ensure compatibility between the site andoperator environments.
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What is a Receiver?
A receiver is that big, heavy thing that you plug your speakers and other components into (like a DVD player, TV, CD player, Xbox, PlayStation, iPod, and etc.). Its the "brain" of the show, really. The idea of connecting all your components to a receiver is the concept of audio/video switching, allowing you to switch to different video sources (like TV, DVD, camcorder) on your TV
and thus changing the audio source accordingly - all without touching anything but the receiver.
Of course, the main purpose behind audio/video switching with a receiver is to drive audio to external speakers, like surround sound or stereo speakers.
Most receivers have a plethora of inputs; up to 8 speakers and a subwoofer (more commonly, 5.1, or five speakers and a subwoofer), several video inputs, and even HDMI inputs. You could plug your Xbox, Plasma, and DVD player into the receiver and use one remote to switch between all the different video sources (games, TV, DVD video) and have your speakers pump out surround-sound. Let's start with inputs and outputs. If you don't understand something, read through the entire How-To as most of it will be explained in detail.
Keep in mind that a receiver is the hub of your entire home theatre, so this How-To will actually guide you through the basics of connecting your complete home theater.
So what the heck is all this 'stuff' on the back of your receiver?
I'm going to go over just about anything that you would find on the back of your receiver. The one I'm basing this guide off of is a Harman Kardon AVR-247 I'm going to start from the top left of the unit and work my way to the right, then I'll start at the left of the next row and so on.
The first three inputs are for antennas. An FM antenna cable would slide on to the first jack while two speaker wires would plug into the remaining slots for AM. Of course, you don't have to plug your antennas in, but if you'd like AM/FM reception through your speakers, you'll want to go ahead and do that. These are standard connections, so if you lose one of your antennas, just go buy another for a few bucks.
You've probably heard of composite video. Its a very basic video connection used by most any component (TV, DVD, VCR especially). Its common and its cheap. As such, its very low quality.
Composite uses an RCA cable for video (yellow) and two more RCA cables for audio (red and white, stereo). The problem is that a composite video cable combines luminance and chrominance in the same cable, reducing the quality of the picture. You lose a lot of sharpness, and the color begins to degrade from the original source. Its useful when you need the extra input or the device you're connecting only has composite video. Otherwise, use something else, like component video. Sounds similar; very different.
S-Video is next in line after composite. It uses a different type of connector (five pins in a circle) and gives you marginally better video quality. It is also a video-only cable, so you'll need to plug in audio separately. In this case, you'll probably use a pair of red and white RCA cables for your audio inputs.
Next up: a ton of composite audio inputs. These inputs use left channel and right channel RCA cables, typically red and white. They look just like the yellow composite video cable, and you could even use them for video and the yellow for audio, but let's keep the color scheme how it is ;) Composite audio is the bottom-of-the-barrel in audio. Its perfectly fine for most use, but if you're looking for high quality surround sound, you don't want composite. Game systems, like the Wii or Xbox, and very basic DVD players are a perfect match for composite audio.
The same goes to VCRs, CD players, and anything that only has a composite audio output. Plus, if you don't have surround sound, or your receiver is only two channels (2.1, stereo sound), you won't be able to use anything but composite audio. Note that there is a composite audio input under each composite video input so that it is easy to match them up. Plug them in the wrong inputs and you won't get sound when you're on that particular video input.
Here we have one of the least-used features of a modern receiver: 6 (or 8) channel direct input. This is only used for two purposes: SACD or DVD Audio. SACD is an acronym for Super Audio CD. It is a proprietary audio format developed by Sony for special CDs that are recorded in 5.1 surround sound. That means you need a CD or DVD/CD player that supports SACDs, a receiver with SACD support (as in the picture), and of course Super Audio CD's. DVD Audio is the same idea, different brand, different media (its a DVD, not a CD!).
DVD Audio discs are special DVDs that are recorded in 5.1 surround sound and can only be played by devices with support for them. These CDs go all the way up to 7.1 surround sound, meaning you would need to have two front, two rear, two side speakers and a subwoofer to enjoy full 7.1 surround sound. Most receivers support up to 7.1 now but you won't find DVDs with that kind of capability for movies. 5.1 surround is still the defacto standard, so don't run out and buy more speakers any time soon.
You could skip this next little item because it is unique to this brand of receiver (Harman Kardon). The Bridge" is a proprietary connection they developed for you to connect
an iPod. You need to buy a separate component that includes a docking station and special cables to connect the iPod. It fully integrates with the receiver, displaying
menus and songs on the front LCD screen of the receiver. This allows you to easily pump your tunes through your speakers, whether it be stereo sound or full surround sound.
Of course, the music on your iPod is stereo sound, so the best you can get is simulated surround sound or stereo surround; the same music playing in the front two channels
is put through the rear and center channels. Some receivers do this more intelligently than others, but more on that later.
Here we have our high-end sound inputs/outputs. Basically the same performance wise, you have fiber optic connections (with the square shape) and digital coaxial (just like an RCA cable).
Both of these are 100% digital, whereas composite is analog. The only way you can get true surround sound from any source is by using one of these connections (or the SACD/DVD Audio option)
Almost all DVD players these days have either optical or digital coaxial outputs (sometimes, both). Many high definition cable and satellite boxes also come with these
connections so you can enjoy 5.1 surround sound on high definition channels. Choosing between the two, there's really no different in audio quality, so feel free to use
what you'd like (or what you're forced to).
I don't think I need an image for the next plug. Its a pair of power inputs. One is for powering the receiver, the other for whatever you'd like. This way, when you turn
on the receiver, you give power to the other device (be it a DVD player, CD player, cable box, whatever). I don't necessarily recommend this unless it specifically suits
your needs. It is useful if you're running low on outlets, of course.
Something else you'll never use: D-bus RC-5 input/output. This is used for infrared remote controls to take over your home theater system. Honestly, its not something any of us will ever use. Some of the real high-end junkies might be using something for it, but I've never even come across a device that uses this technology. Stick to the remote that came with your unit, or buy a quality universal remote control. There's no need for this option. An alternate use for this may be a bit more common: if your receiver's front panel is blocked (like inside a cabinet), you could get an infrared transmitter to latch on to the front of it. This transmitter would hook up to another device somewhere in your room that will accept signals from your remote control. The receiving device then transmits the remote's commands to your receiver (via the transmitter you've attached to the front over the regular infrared transmitter).
Pre-outs , located right under the Remote in/out. Pre-outs are used when you'd like to add an amplifier to your system to boost the power (and hence volume/audio quality). Average
users will not use this for anything but the subwoofer preout. You'll want to run a subwoofer cable from your subwoofer to the subwoofer pre-out to provide it with
the right frequencies. This is the proper way to connect your subwoofer to your surround sound system. The other inputs won't be used unless you plan on adding
an amplifier. This is highly unnecessary for home use. You might add an amp if you're trying to fill a room the size of a small house with enough sound, but you're not, right?
Here we finally get to the meat of the system: the speaker inputs! Harman Kardon receivers use bind posts for connecting speakers, as seen in the picture. They
work by being loosened up as your turn them counter-clockwise, then you sneak the speaker wire in underneath the caps and tighten them back up by turning clockwise. This'll
give your speaker wire a nice tug fit that probably won't loosen up on itself over time. Other brands may use other types of connectors, but bind posts are very common.
You might have been able to tell this is a 7.1 channel receiver because of the speaker inputs.
You've got room for 2 front left and right speakers, 2 rear left and right speakers,
a center channel, and two left and right "surround" channels which are placed somewhere in between your front and rear speakers ("side surround", or 7.1). If you have enough
speakers, you can go ahead and plug in those extra 2 side ones, but they won't play any sound at all on a 5.1 DVD. You would need a DVD that supports 7.1
surround sound, and at this time, there just isn't a market for it. CDs will gladly blast stereo surround through all 7 speakers, though, so for some larger rooms, that's an
advantage.
Our final set of connectors for this receiver: component video . The best video you can get next to composite or s-video. You'll notice its a set of three cables (all for video),
usually Red, Green and Blue. Don't think that's what the cable does, though - it separates the video signal by luminance and two separate color channels. In the past, component
did it in fact represent R, G, B (splitting the primary colors in transmit and recombining them at the destination device), but that is not used in current component video
connections. Component video can carry high definition signals, all the way up to 1080p, so it is the most cost effective and readily available high definition input.
Not seen on this receiver are DVI and HDMI, the two all-digital video connections.
HDMI is the newest, fastest, sharpest video and audio connection available today. Its the only cable that can carry audio and video in one - not to mention, in high definition.
HDMI must be supported by the source and the display you're connecting it to to use all of its features. Not all DVD players, cable boxes, or receivers support both
audio and video in HDMI. Its becoming more and more of a standard now to support both. The advantage is clear: less cable clutter, higher quality audio and video. You can get up
to 1080p high definition video and 7.1 surround sound through an HDMI cable. Newer cable and satellite boxes, DVD players, high definition DVD players, and more expensive receivers
support the full capability of HDMI. Its the best you can get as all-digital goes.
The last connection for this article is DVI. DVI is also all digital like HDMI, but it cannot process audio signals. HDMI may provide a technically superior image,
but I don't think anyone could tell the difference. DVI supports high definition video all the way up to 1080p, just like HDMI. Its being used less frequently now,
but if you've bought a new computer or video card for your PC recently, it probably has a DVI (or two) port on it. Most computer monitors use DVI now and video cards
have followed suit. HDMI is edging its way into the PC market, but its dominance is seen in the home theater arena.
Now that you've familiarized yourself with common connections, let's plug it all together.
This part of the receiver How-To is going to guide you through hooking a 5.1 surround sound system(5 speakers and a subwoofer) with a high-definition TV, a high-definition cable or satellite box, a DVD player, and a 5.1 receiver.
Your TV & Components
Where you put your TV is dependent on how large it is, how large your room is, and where you will be sitting. If its 50 inches, don't sit more than 10-15 feet away; but no less, either.
A 60" set is perfect for 12-20 feet. If you have a 32 inch set, try to sit no farther than 8-12 feet away. Your receiver, DVD player, cable box, and other components should obviously be close together, but don't place them physically on top of each other. They all get hot, especially your receiver. If you have no other choice, slide a thin piece of plywood between the components to help dispense the heat.
Lay Out of Speakers
The first step is to lay out your setup. Different rooms call for different locations for your speakers and subwoofer. If your room is a typical rectangle, go ahead and place your two front left and right speakers somewhere flush with the television on that side of the room. Your left speaker goes toward the left corner, right speaker toward the right corner. Don't bother with speaker wire yet (unless your speakers come with speaker wire attached already; in that case, just let them dangle for now). Note that which speaker is left or right is solely dependent on how you connect them to your receiver. Your speakers aren't actually designated "left" or "right".
Depending on how you acquired your speakers, your front speakers could be larger than your rear speakers. That's how you know they're for the front. Otherwise, all your speakers are the same shape and size, and you can use each for any purpose.
One exception: the center channel. Usually, a center channel is much shorter and wider than your other speakers. It should only be used for the center channel. Sometimes, all 5 of your speakers could be the same, usually on a very inexpensive setup. You can use any of these speakers for any purpose.
Your center channel should always go either directly on top or under your television set. However you have to do this, get it done! It's not called the center channel for nothing, you know. Any movie will pump out almost 90% of the voices you hear and a majority of the rest of the sounds through the center channel. It is a vitally important component to your surround sound setup.
Your subwoofer should always be on the floor. If it is impossible to place it on the floor, get it as close to the floor as possible. Placing it behind objections or in closets will diminish its effects. In a perfect setup, the subwoofer would be on the floor close to the TV (perhaps off to the left or right) in your line of sight. Nothing should block the side of the subwoofer that air will come out of (usually covered by a grill protecting the subwoofer speaker itself).
When it comes to finding a good spot for your speakers, you might want to mount them. You can usually buy compatible speaker mounts online or in stores. You can also
use existing shelving, buy some shelving, or place them on tables or other objects. No matter how you do it, try to keep the speakers as close to ear level as possible. A speaker mounted at the ceiling of your room isn't going to give you the optimal aural experience.
The last thing to keep in mind about layout is speaker wire. You'll probably need at least 100ft of speaker wire, but you'll often find yourself using much more if you
try running wire through your ceiling, under carpeting, up through the basement, or around objects to conceal it. Take measurements and buy at least 10% more wire than
you think you need. You'll probably use it!
Cabling
You need to know the different kind of speaker wire available to you before setting up your home theatre. If you bought an HTIB (home theater in a box), it probably came with 100ft of horribly cheap speaker wire. You don't want that! Do yourself a favor: buy some high-quality, 14-guage speaker wire. Anything higher than 14-guage is just to thin and will be susceptible to interence, quality loss, and poor quality over longer distances. Fourteen guage is a good thickness and suitable for most home theatres. Make sure its also not too thick - some speaker wire simply will not fit in to the speaker wire jacks on some receivers.
Some receivers use proprietary speaker inputs. Sony is one example. Many Sony receivers have special connectors for speaker wire and will not accept a standard speaker wire. You'll need to use either the Sony-provided speaker wire, take the ends off of Sony speaker wire and put it on your own, or buy some of these special connectors from Sony directly to place on your speaker wire. My recommendation? Avoid any receivers with non-standard speaker wire posts/jacks/connectors. Look for bind posts or other jacks that allow you to slide in and clamp down on a typical speaker wire.
Once you've got your speaker wire sorted out, you'll have to do some cutting and stripping if you opted to purchase your own. This is way easier than it sounds, so don't worry!
Measure out each length one at a time, cutting the speaker wire with either really great scissors or a sharp blade. Now you need to strip the ends of the wire. Use either a stripping tool or plain old scissors. You can place the scissors on the cable and gently apply some pressure as you twist the scissors around the cable, carefully slicing into the plastic coating. Eventually, it'll get weak enough that you can just slide it off by tugging on it with your fingers. You need at least 1/4" of exposed wire.
Now you can connect your speakers. Note on your speaker wire the difference between the two ends. You'll need to use one as your positive and one as your negative. Sometimes the coating is a different color between the two or there is text on one and not on the other. Keep track of this - whichever side you use for positive on your speaker, use it for positive on your receiver. Crossing the two can cause damage, either immediately or sometime in the future. It might work this way but you don't want it to!
Connecting the speakers is easy enough. Front left to front left on your receiver, center speaker to center on your receiver, etc... Your rear speakers may be referred to as "Surround" or "Rear Surround" instead of just "Rear", but keep in mind, if you have a 7.1 or 8.1 channel receiver, "Surround" may indicate side surround speakers, not rear speakers.
Subwoofers
Your subwoofer is going to be a little more complicated. There are a few different ways to do it and many variations of inputs/ouputs on the back side of subwoofers. I'm going to go with the most standard and efficient method first.
You will need a subwoofer cable for connecting your sub. If you don't have one or don't want to buy one, you can substitute it for a standard red or white RCA cable (or a pair, since they are usually connected; just let the other cable dangle). It will work, but its really not the best way to do it. You'll also need whats called a Y adapter. On the back of your sub, there should be a left/right input (red and white). You plug the Y adapter in to these connections and then your subwoofer cable (or RCA cable) in the other end of the Y (note: if you don't have a Y adapter, just choose the left or right input to plug into).
Now, take the other end of your cable and plug it into your receiver's
subwoofer preout. Hopefully you have a powered sub, meaning it gets plugged into an AC power outlet. All you need to do now is plug that in and your subwoofer is good to.
If you don't have RCA jacks on your subwoofer, or it only has speaker wire jacks (and its most likely not powered), you'll need to connect it the old fashioned way. Your front left and right speakers will plug into your subwoofer's ouput jacks instead of your receiver. You'll then run speaker wire from the left and right inputs on the subwoofer to your left and right speaker outputs on your receiver. This way, the subwoofer is powered by the receiver and will not work as well as a powered sub. You also take some power away from your front speakers with this method. A good idea is to buy a new, powered subwoofer with line in RCA jacks.
Connecting the Dots
You've got the hard stuff out of the way. Now finish it up by connecting your TV, DVD, and cable/satellite box. Always try using the best options first. If your DVD
has HDMI and so does your receiver, use it. If your DVD only has composite, s-video, and component, use component video cable. When it comes to audio, you absolutely need
to use digital coaxial (jacks are usually orange) or fiber optic (usually the jack is recessed into the unit and has a door on it; when the door is open, a red light is visible). If you do not use either of these two, you won't get true surround sound! When all else fails, resort to composite (red and white) audio connectors.
Note: Look closely at the connections on your receiver. Everything is labeled, like the first set of red, green, and blue component video inputs might be labeled "Comp 1". If you're using composite audio cablesfor your sound, you'll need to plug them into the jacks that coordinate with "Comp 1". This might not be clear by looking at the receiver, so refer to your receiver's manual to figure out which video inputs use which audio inputs. Most often, you'll be able to configure them from the receiver's internal menu using the remote control.
On some receivers, all the component video inputs, for example, are linked to a single composite audio input (usually "DVD"), so if you connect more than one of the component inputs, you will be competing for sound when more than one device is active. This is why you'd want to configure the component inputs to use different audio inputs.
Your manual is the only way to figure out how to go about it. Composite video will usually match up to composite audio inputs with naming conventions like Video 1 -> Video 1, Video 2 -> Video 2, etc., but cables like component and DVI may not. You should also configure digital audio inputs to match up with the video inputs you're planning on using. For example, if you're using a digital coaxial input (possibly "Digital 1"), and you use component video, you'll want to match "Digital 1" with "Comp 1". Again, refer to your users manual for how to do this.
See Also - VSX-03TXH Onkyo TX-SR304 AV Receiver
